Thursday, October 30, 2008

The abridged version

Ok, I got some catch-up to do. After I got to Bend I spent a day looking for a buddy which I never managed to do since for whatever reason my cell phone coverage does not seem to include Bend Oregon. So, knowing I would have some climbing partners in Red Rocks I continued south early the next morning.
I managed to cover from Bend all the way down in to Las Vegas in about 15 hours worth of driving. I arrived quite late at night and quickly set up camp and slept until early the next morning. On the way down I got ahold of friends from Anchorage that were in Vegas and planned on climbing with them the next morning.
This being my first real-rock climbing on the trip and since last April it was nice to spend in on easier stuff getting laps under my belt. I actually spent a good portion going over trad climbing with them since it was something they wanted to do. It was a nice refresher for myself. With no flash pumpiness and several routes down it was a pleasant first day except for the blazing sun which seemed only feet from our heads.
I spent the next day sport climbing, starting in the sun but quickly moving into the shade of the Black Corridor. There I put down several more routes and also ran into another group of Alaskans.
With my birthday the following day we chose to celebrate the night before since the next day was going to be a rest day anyway and we would be better suited for a multi-pitch trad the following day. To say the least I threw down. Like most times I had no real intentions of going that far but several margaritas including a yard of one and a jello shot I was in it for my birthday. It seems that by 27 I should know better, maybe next year.
The next day I got the most of the rest day sobering up and walking around the strip. I've had worst recoveries, I've also had better.
Now being wiser for it, whether or not I use it, the next day came and we went after Dark shadows. A pleasant climb one of my partners took on every lead which I was happy to let her as she wanted to learn and she self-imposed was on the accelerated program.
Check out the photos on picasa.
Another day of sport followed though I did get to lead one route with trad and after checking it out so do my protege.
After saying goodbye and another stop by the strip we parted ways, they back to work and life and I to continue my aimless wondering.

The next morning I headed off for Bishop where I spent the night at Pleasant Valley next to the Happy boulders. There I ran into 3 guys from Juneau on a climbing trip promoting a buddy's new climbing shop and website. balanceclimbing.com I even got several free T-shirts from them. Them being friendly Alaskans new to the area we joined crash pads and headed out the next morning for the Happies. There I got the crap beat out of me on the boulders. It started off slow enough but them being a bit stronger than I, I pushed myself and after 7 hours of bouldering, it had taken it out of me. We headed off to the Buttermilks to spend the night there and have a short morning session before heading back to Red Rocks with them.
The next morning I awoke very sore and stiff. I came to enough to throw done one problem.
We spent the rest of the day heading to Red Rocks.

We spent the first day doing another multi-pitch trad, Lotta Balls, which was a lot of fun. With one of the guys we found some easy single pitch trad and we threw down. The next day became a marathon of sport climbing. I did something like 8 different routes one of them super tough, for me at least. It was another 7-8 hour day of climbing. Early the next morning we headed back to Bishop to meet up with more guys and some bouldering.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Long trip down

The first 3 days.
The physical journey began early Tuesday morning when my alarm went off plenty early so I could get a full day of driving. I quickly and effectively ignored it. Several hours later when I did get up, feeling better than hours before, I quickly realized that it had snowed, and was still snowing here in Anchorage. I was actually in Peters Creek at my folks’ house, but it was snowing there too.
I had chosen not to put on my snow tires since I figured I was heading to warmer weather anyway and in the last several many previous years October had not seen any substantial snow fall. My only saving grace was for the fact that roads were remaining free of snow. A quick last breakfast/early lunch for awhile from my mom, I loaded up which turned out to be a lot of shit into the truck, then paced throughout the house desperately trying not to forget anything remotely important, I said goodbye to the dog and cat (said goodbye to the folks’ earlier as they had both already left the house) and started which I knew would be a lot of driving from here on out. A quick stop in Palmer for gas, food, and energy drinks I was well on my way come one in the afternoon. I have nowhere to be at no particular time so what’s the rush. The journey can be half the fun, so still no rush being anywhere.
The snow continued to fall clear until just past the Mat glacier through the roads were also merely wet, it actually became quite clear out with the sun shining brightly on the previously snowed upon region around Glennallen. After turning towards Tok around Gulkana the clouds were overcast and snow was on the roads slowing my late start. I can’t really remember if it just started or I drove smack into it but it be snowing. And blowing. And I couldn’t see shit. It must not have been coming down too long since while it completely covered the roads as hard as it was snowing it wasn’t that deep yet. The roads were very slick, but really only if one wanted to stop. Turning was fine, at least at my speed and angle, but stopping as I would discover during some unanticipated field tests. While cruising through the mountains before Tok, and through the snow that fell I came down one of several moderate hills except this one had a small herd of caribou crossing in front of me. I quickly learned the stopping and staying on the road was a one or the other kind of choice. The caribou thankfully did not loiter and got the hell off the road. Continuing on still with white knuckles and the camera case open, just in case I do stay on the road maybe I can start to document this journey. I did not have to wait long for my follow up stopping check, another herd, about the size crossing again the same direction, though this time on a different hill. This one went about the same but with my previous experience I was able to make a successful stop and got several pictures off through the windows. I even had on lone caribou stick around trying to eat something on the road. Perhaps some road kill have some lichen stuck to it… After continuing on and finding another hill I found yet another herd, by this time I calmly stopped all while getting the camera out and snapping pics.By the time I reached Tok the snow had stopped and there was again no snow on the road. With such a late start this was going to be my stopping point for the day but with all the sleep I got I figured I could safely continue on perhaps staying ahead of all that snow. With several more hours of night driving though it was beautifully lit by a full moon, often through a thin layer of cloud I finished a full day of driving early into the next day in Haines Junction. Deciding it was cold and the back of my truck quite full I got a reasonably priced room the remainder of the night.
After six wonderful hours of sleep though a tad less than my normal amount, I got going earlier than the first day, I guess this can be seen as an improvement.

The second day started in Haines Junction and ended about an hour from reaching Prince George. This was a full 17 hour day of driving. I only stopped three times to get gas. The vast majority of the day was uneventful with half of it in the light and another half with only my headlights. Going through Canada at this time of year must be done having planned around places to fill up with gas. Each dot on the map with a name next to yet does represent some sort of settlement but not always one with a gas station and often one without a gas station that stays open past September. This had me making extra stops when not totally near empty along with picking up a 5 gal gas can while in Palmer. I would have gotten one bigger if they had it. This proved vital to the success of my second day driving. Heading south through Canada I opted for a slightly shorter route that took me through several Indian Reservations, so they were smaller than most towns and the road less developed than the main Alcan highway. It was saving me at least 100 if not more miles (or 180 Km since I was in Canada) but with these small towns the few gas stations that did exist did not have 24 hour pumps. Few even took credit cards without going inside. My road south connected with another “major” highway east where I had planned and expected to be a gas station as I was becoming in somewhat desperate need of it. There was, it just was not open nor did it operate its pumps past closing. I had arrived right around 11 pm local time, though it appeared to have been closed for some time. This was the third gas station I came across in about 20 miles I had hoped to fill up at, though this was seen as my last hope since the other towns coming up were a little ways away and their dots on the map were no bigger. I had pulled over to confirm they were not on, and to fill up with my spare 5 gal can. While doing this I figure I would drive no more than 50 miles or to the next town whichever came first and call in a night by the side of the road, just in case I might have to back track come morning. While filling up with the damn 5 gal can I apparently did not tighten the nozzle and lost some of my precious fuel down onto my foot where my crocs allowed my sock to soak it up. Nothing too terrible but the next 50 miles was spent sucking in gas fumes in the cab of my truck. Luck would have it the next town came right about 50 miles and this dot even contained a 24 hour Chevron station where I was even able to pick up a drink and a snack to supplement my weight-loss shakes for the day. With the adrenaline pumping through me I was quite awake at midnight and decided to push it a little further since I wasn’t going to fall asleep anytime soon. Two and a half hours later I was quite tired and managed to find one of many rest areas along the side of the road. I pulled over found a nice spot only one other truck/camper was there and crawled into the back of my truck for some sleep.
I’ve chosen better spots to sleep. Not caring much I just crawled on top of all my stuff in my truck. Trying feet first to begin with I found my legs were above my head with them on a cooler and tote pushing my blood to my head, then switching position, that went away but not I had a cooler and a tote digging into my ribs. I slept with my arm under me for a short bit though it quickly fell asleep. Throwing most of my body on the cooler and tote it was a bit like sleeping with you back over a barrel. I could only manage it for so long and my only other option was with corners in my ribs. I spent the next 6 hours switching from one position to another. This was also on top of listening to all the truckers go by using the engine breaks on the moderate hill that this rest area was. I really did not think I slept that long but when I noticed to was lighter outside and checked my watch it had been a full six hours. First night in the truck was over with.
I continued on figuring I could make it to the States by the end of the day and on to Centrilia to make a drop off of one of the coolers full of Alaskan salmon for by buddy Eric at his Dad’s place.
The following day I continued on to Salem to visit Paul and Shawana and see just how terrible Salem could be. Not sure it was terrible but it sure wasn't very exciting. I chose to continue on to Bend.