Thursday, December 25, 2008

Merry Festivus!

Tis the holiday season and I hope you all are enjoying family and friends and gifts given and received. Since my last post I have left Joshua Tree and headed north hoping to catch at least one more day of climbing but it was not to be. I got into Bishop late and with the weather clear I spent the night, found some friends still in the area and planned on climbing the following day. It was a cold night so half the campground gathered around our campfire and as we drank into the night thinking of a warm sun the next day a light flutter of snow began to fall. And continued to fall which we would discover throughout the night. We awoke to several inches of snow and with no hope of climbing that day or days to come.
Mission Ridge Ski Area

I met up with Keith and Lisa in Bishop and they were kind enough to give me a place to stay with the snowy conditions and all. Keith had hopes of making it up to Mammoth mountain to check out all the newly fallen snow. I decided to stick around a couple extra days before continuing north towards Oregon. We spent a full day in Mammoth skiing. It was my first time on skis in 15 or so years, I had switched to snowboarding after several years of skiing. Well, after that first day I discovered I wasn't terrible at skiing but that I also had a long way to go before I could fully utilize my randonee setup. Also that my legs through having carried my large ass up to the base of many climbs in the last three months were in fact in no shape for skiing. I could barely walk the that night. It didn't help that the mountain was above 9,000ft which made sense after getting winded hiking up fifteen feet to retrieve a lost ski.
After a good day of skiing I continued up north towards Bend and Salem. After driving through quite a bit of snowy roads and icy passes I made it to Bend which had very little snow. I had actually hoped to find a partner the next day to maybe get a climb in to two. Again I awoke to several inches of fresh snow and more falling in Bend. A quick trip into town and checking the weather, it called for more snow and also none of the nearby ski areas were not quite open yet. They were hoping to open within a couple days. I headed to Salem to bug Paul and Shawana during this peaceful holiday times. I hung out a few days as more snow falled, my hopes to head further north were being impeded by the road conditions but more importantly the crazy drivers of Oregon and Washington whom were apparently not well versed in snowy conditions. After a couple days seeing it not getting better nor a whole lot worst I continued on to visit a buddy of mine, Chris living in Wenatchee, Washington. The trip from Salem to Portland was interesting with a good amount of snow falling and the interstate was far from clear, of snow crazy cars or truckers. Past Portland the roads were better and after 8 hours, which should have taken 5 I arrived in Wenatchee to a Bad Sweater party. Drinking was done, friends were made and the next day several of us headed to Stevens Pass for a day of skiing. After a rough start of a refresher I picked up where I left off and started making headway with my skis.
Chris around sunset
The following day we "borrowed" some season passes of friends out of town and hit up another ski area, just Chris and I and had another great day of skiing. My legs were quite sore this time. Christmas eve we attended another party, this one more family and friends, not mine but I think everyone else knew each other. It was hosted by a family from whom the husband/father was quite the local climber who had set up quite a bit of the Leavenworth climbing scene and who was also in the middle of putting together another guide book for the area. It had in his backyard a small barn which had turned into a bouldering gym, I'll get pictures later, where I proceded to spend the entirety of the party at climbing with the kids and later some adults. We had previous knowledge so I came prepared with shoes and chalk. Besides a nice assortment of climbing holds on the walls and structures in the middle he had taken various rocks and glued them to his walls which really added to feel. After several hours there I was able to run inside before departing and have some food and meet the hosts again.
Chistmas day was quiet, Chris and I went skiing again and now my legs are very sore.
Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays.
Catch ya later,

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Summer is over

Well, I chased the summer for all I was worth and willing to follow south. I've been carrying skis and a snowboard on my truck for nearly three months without dipping them in any snow. Its time to switch gears and head north into what snow I can find. I have defied the gravity and rock gods with climbing, its now time to test them on the slopes of powdery fun.
Spent the last week climbing here in Joshua Tree and when the wind isn't blowing its quite nice. The wind really picked up today and the forecast is for rain and cold. If I'm going to be cold and wet it needs to be from being cruising through powder. Going to head up to Bishop again and see if I can't get the best of both worlds with a little more climbing and skiing in the nearby mountains. If both are no good I'll head East to Utah and maybe Colorado. Got to find winter somewhere out here.
Climbing has been good with no real injuries yet, the closest thing was the boulder incident, and I have hopes of resuming climbing within a couple weeks. Met a lot of cool people climbing, some out for the weekend, others for longer trips. Some chasing summer while running away from having to get a life. Like myself.
Just a short one, if anyone knows where the snow is good drop me a note, I'll keep in touch when I can. Hope everyone's holidays are shaping up well,
Enjoy

Monday, December 8, 2008

Lucky to be alive, last week was epic!

Gotta love Red Rocks!


So, I met up with Lee and Kyle and later Lee's buddy from Yuma, Alan. We spent the week in Red Rocks climbing climbing every day for 7 days without rest. It was awesome. We did mostly trad with one day of sport and one multi-pitch climb that was mostly sport. Climbed hard everyday and drank hard every night making the most of the short time. Everything went well or even better than for nearly the entire time there. Then, despite the incidence that occurred it really only got better mostly because that fact that we had no substantial injuries and of course no one was killed.
It started easy enough on our 5th day climbing with our long day of trad on the Ginger Cracks, and climb outside the Pine Creek canyon that has one hell of an approach up a steep hill into a gully. The climb went well with Lee and I swapping leads with Kyle carrying the bag of food and water. We reached the top at dusk, Vegas was just turning back on and the sun well behind the mountain as we started the three rappels it took to get off the 6 or 7 pitches it took to get up. We came down another climb that was further up the gully and off to the left. I got to go first since Kyle and Lee simul-rappelled all but the last rappel due to anchors were small so they anchored into me, then for obivious reasons rappelled first. By the time I reached the bottom of the climb Kyle had started off to find the bottom of our climb which was down a steep gully and had the only other head lamp other than myself. By the time we reached the bottom it was quite dark, I coiled one of the ropes around my head as Lee had the other and we headed down the gully. I had all the trad gear and a rope, Lee, some more gear and the other rope. Kyle was about 30 ft in front of us which lengthened and shortened depending on the obstacle we went over. Lee stayed only about 10 to 15ft in front of me. At a very tight squeeze and short drop down the gully I steped on one of two boulders wedged in the choke point. From here the events went quickly, but one of those boulders, the one I was on or the one above it, but they came loose. I can only guess the one that mattered was 5-600lbs started to roll, I yelled as I lost my balance for warning and then will the last bit of controlled momentum I threw myself for the side of the gully. To say the least, I didn't stick liked I had hoped. I bounced right off and then begun to trundle my ass down the steep gully going ass over end with some air time inbetween. As accounted from Lee who was probably 15-20 ft in front of me he heard the boulder coming but when he turned all he say was me rolling down the gully with my head lamp doing cartwheels. After a long drop I came to a stop right on my ass. Had it stopped there it would have been the most painfull fall I've ever had. From there my legs were slightly elevated and I was in the sitting position. The rope was thrown from my neck thankfully without ringing my neck, and my head lamp was barely on my head. From above in the dark I could hear the boulder which had started below me still coming. There was not a damn thing I could do so I sat on my ass and braced for what could be the beginning of a painful or quickly over situation. It briefly crossed my mind that my knife was at the base of the climb should I need to cut my arm off. I listened to it coming and from the dark above it slammed into my side. My hip and upper left side of my back took the brunt of the impact. It was more of a glancing blow than anything but the boulder kind of bounced off and came to rest a few feet below me. It quickly crossed my mind that I may have broken some ribs as it knocked the air out of me. I got up since I could and got myself into a better position and sat on a better spot closer to where Lee had ended up. After he saw me rolling down had managed to jump off to the right and stick. Kyle on the other hand was damn sure a house size boulder had cut loose and proceded to run for his life down the gully. According to him he only made it about 5 ft before getting tangled up in some bushes. He was the first to ask if everyone was ok, he had to ask several times before anyone answered. I wasn't sure if I was but I figured I was alive. Lee answered since he was in the best shape of any of us. Kyle had beat the hell out of his legs and hand during his short but desperate flee. We gathered below and found ourselves a mere 20 or so feet from the base with the rest of our stuff. We checked ourselves out there and other than some minor flesh wounds we gathered our stuff and walked down.
My ankle was a little tweaked but I could walk on it. My back and side were sore but nothing more really. The next day I was no worse than the night before. My flesh wound on my side was right where my harness would rub but other than that all was good. I was expecting to wake up more sore or with bruises but nothing. That night the beer never tasted so good and life seem worth continuing on for the next day.
We would climb for two more days, the next day was a light day with only a single crack climb for me and the following day sport climbing. Friday night we grilled up some steaks Lee's buddy Alan had brought. We ate several steaks each along with several brautwursts. Saturday night we got a hotel, tickets to see a Cirque de Soliel show and a night of heavy drinking, eating, playing beer pong and throwing away a little money in Sin City. We got back to the hotel were Lee got to lay down for half an hour before being dragged to the airport shuttle and cast on his way. I had little doubt he would not make it, he was in rough shape but last word he was back in Alaska and not in Guantomano Bay. Kyle had choosen to continue on before being sent back to his room around 9am. I got several hours of sleep before continuing on to Joshua Tree where I find myself now.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

A quick note

Just a quick post here,
I've been here in Red Rocks for the last two weeks climbing, well mostly climbing. Met up with Cynthia here and climbed with her for 4 days. Then just before Thanksgiving, hope everyone have a good meal, it rained for two days here. Some serious hard rain too. Because of that and this rock being sandstone we had to occupy our time with other than climbing. Drinking took up most of our time. I was hanging out with two guys from Atlanta, and a Outward Bound group from North Carolina. They held a Thanksgiving potlatch at the campsite. Much food was consumed. After several days of rest, consuming, and intoxication we got back to climbing. The day the guys from Atlanta were heading on to Joshua Tree, I ran into Kyle and Lee from Anchorage down here and for the last three days we've managed to throw down something like 14 pitches worth of multi- pitch mostly trad climbing. The weather has been good but in the shade it gets cold. Other than that all has been going great down here. Lots of fun being had by all.
I'll get some pretty sweet pictures posted hopefully by the end of the week. With three of us here climbing together lots of pictures have been taken, some of them ought to even turn out alright.
Sorry the delay of posting but hey, I've been busy climbing and whatnot.
Hope all is going well wherever you are,
Until next time...