Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Bend Over

We have for the most part concluded our time here in Bend, our friends arrived and continued on their ways, as we are about to do as well.  Our friend Jake spent about a week with us climbing, drinking, and generally contributing to our merriment.  Meg aka Megatron arrived last Thursday and departed back to Alaska yesterday and we heard that this morning she was already back at work.

Over the last week our climbing increased significantly, both Christina and I getting used to the rock and gaining some strength along with the better weather I had promised her.  By the time Jake arrived we were in full swing.  Having the ballast required for a safe belay from Jake I ventured into more testing routes for everyone.  On one of the first routes at the new level while I was feeling good and in search of something more challenging for my partners I found myself on a route I had not done before but well within my comfort zone.  It had been a warm day, one of the first and about 3 bolts up I came upon a jug hold with high feet that required a large lunging move to the next good hold.  I brought my feet up high, crouched down and pulled hard.  Having told Jake to "Watch me" and not thinking anything would happen but my concern was more of being short roped during my dynamic move I found myself instead falling towards Jake with the large hold still in my hands.  The extra rope that he had provided was indeed not short roping me but added to the freefall ride I was now on.  The rock was no longer a concern so at some point I dropped it and prepared for the impact that was be the wall as I swung back in or the ground that quickly approached.  I thankfully met the wall, as did Jake just below me.  Unfortunately Jake's sandals did not offer much protection as he met the wall resulting in a small abrasion, though if you heard it from him he now counts only nine toes.  I counted ten, and a week later it would take him a second to remember what foot it happened to.  I was very thankful that Jake was there and the rope and equipment performed as advertised and I pulled myself back up and after some additional moves and without the jug hold that was once there I finished the route.  Jake and Christina opted not to do that route that day but we would return a week later and all send it without incident.



Upon the arrival of Meg we set forth on a epic challenge for Meg Jake and I to throw down some classics here at Smith.  Well outside the comfort zone for Christina and not wanting her to miss out on more than a day of climbing with us, we opted to climb both Zebra/Zion and then walk over to the Monkey's Face and do that in one day.  Christina would get some work done, and provide libations and snacks at the bottom of our last climb which would be at nearly 10pm.



The climbs would not go down easily for us.  Our start was a little behind schedule that afternoon, nothing too drastic but the hot afternoon soon quickly turned the first two pitches for me into a bit of a suffer fest.  My feet quickly ballooned and became quite painful making those leads a bit slower than I had hoped.  By the time all three of us made it up the first two pitches I knew we were in for a long day.  I scampered up the next pitch and brought them up at the same time to save some time.  Jake volunteered to lead the last pitch of Zion, though had conveyed to me a little more experience than what we saw and would later find out the extent.  He got up it nonetheless and got Meg and I up it safely enough.  Reaching the top just after 6pm we quickly got ourselves to the Monkey's Face and didn't waste anytime attacking it.  Upon getting to the top of the bolt ladder I had to turn the headlamp on and realized just how tired I was.  With a little struggle but otherwise solid progress both Meg and Jake joined me in the mouth of the Monkey.  The easy climb out of the mouth and to the rappel station is usually quite frightening but when its dark and you can't see the bottom it just isn't that bad.  My hands were to the point where I was having trouble opening and closing them on command.  A bit cold and a little dehydrated got me a little concerned.  The wind which was brisk on the way up was still brisk on the rappel down but also sent me spinning during the 180ft free rappel down.  On cool thing during the climb up in the dark was the full moon lighting up the surrounding land, it was also the night of the lunar eclipse which I'm glad we got down long before that happen.  By the time we returned to our campground the clouds had obscured the event.  Christina was waiting for us at the base of the climb with snacks and celebratory beers.  We would enjoy a very late dinner that night and good restful sleep that night.  The next day was our friends last day so a short climbing session was had, getting Christina and Meg up on the wall.  I got to sit this one out as my hands and feet were quite sore.

Today is a rest and recovery day, tomorrow we leave for North Dakota to spend Easter Sunday on the rez with family and my mom will be meeting Christina for the first time there.



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