After four days on the train, Irkutsk was a welcome if not boring stop. The charm of the wooden homes and markets beckoned us to walk the streets and find the tourist bureau to book our Lake Baikal adventures. Known as the Paris of Siberia, this small town's seal features a mythical creature called a Babr. Part lion but closely resembling a fox to us, the main square has a large statue. By the golden shine on the claws, it seems people rub them for luck.
We took a 5 hour bus ride to Olkhon island to stay two nights at Nikita's homestead. A kitschy place that rents bikes, atvs, and sponsors excursions to the northern tip of the island, the meals are hot and plentiful in the canteen. Unfortunately we arrived a week or two too early for the season. There was still ice in the lake, precluding ferries and tour boats from running. We had two options- pay 600 roubles each to get in another bus and bounce to the northern cape of the island for a total of 6 hours with a non-english speaking guide; OR, ride mountain bikes with two new American friends for 600 roubles total. Oh, and the fresh water seals have not been seen on the Cape yet this season.
How badly my arse hurts as I type this is a testament to how much fun we had. Through forests and up to clearings with budding flowers and vista views of the island, even though the bike changed gears without my desire, it was a good ascent and even more fun descent. On that sunny afternoon we drank some Russian beer a little ways away from the Sacred Rock and the prayer flag poles that stand outside the back gates of our Homestead.
Blue is the holiest color and cloth tied to these poles strikes a contrast to the Caribbean like turqouise of Lake Baikal. Although I am disappointed we did not see the fresh water seals, the colors of the sunsets, the walks along the ice and pebble covered beaches, the sound of water lapping on the shore, was worth the jaunt here.
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